Also, without carbonic acid, the bicarbonate buffer cannot control the pH and keep it from rising. The pH of a “balanced” spa can increase from 7.4 to 8.3 in as little as 40 minutes. In a spa “balanced” means pH is 7.4, total alkalinity is 120 ppm, and chlorine level are 3 ppm.  If you add a pH decreaser at this point to your spa, the pH decreases only temporarily.  If you add more pH decreaser than needed for pH control, you may over-reduce the total alkalinity and lose the water’s buffering capacity. More additions could then cause the pH to decrease quickly.

The rise in pH may cause cloudy water due to the formation of calcium carbonate. High pH and temperature cause bicarbonates to convert to carbonates by losing CO2 and water.  The carbonates then unite with calcium in the water to form scale, which can cloud spa water, clog spa heaters, and roughen and discolor you spas surface.

This all may sound scary and even a little difficult to understand, but do not worry.  Once you have your total alkalinity levels established, and have your pH in range, it is a matter of checking your spa water daily and adding the prescribed amount of spa product to maintain the aforementioned “balanced” levels.

Hot tub maintenance requires five essential steps to ensure proper water care.

1.  Circulation and Filtration

The force and velocity of aerated water keeps the water moving so suspended debris can be removed by filters.  Circulation also ensures that the hot tub chemicals are thoroughly distributed.   Since dirt, sweat, and oils are released in a hot tub good filtration is essential.  Cartridge filters are the typical choice for spas and because of the increased amounts of filterable debris, the filter should be chemically cleaned regularly – at least every time the hot tub is drained and refilled.

2.  Cleaning

Cleaning a hot tub involves several activities. Routine cleaning should include:  removal of obvious debris by skimming or vacuuming; cleaning the waterline around the hot tub; and removal of body oils that are rinsed off the bathers.

3.  Chemical Care

The hot tub environment encourages bacteria and algae growth.  Hot tub owners need to follow a regular,complete chemical treatment routine.  Hot tub chemistry includes water balance, sanitizer and oxidizer applications.

4.  Testing

Fewer gallons of water mean changes in water balance happen faster.  Add to this the aerated water, increased water temperature, and heavier bather loads – and it’s easy to see the importance of regular testing.

5.  Drain and Refill

Regular draining and refilling of a hot tub is normal procedure for all hot tub owners.  Sooner or later, the water reaches a point where it just gets “worn out” from the bather load.  When the water looks bad, smells bad and feels bad, it is time for a change.  Determine a schedule for draining the hot tub based on hot tub size and number of daily bathers.

TOTAL GALLONS ÷ 3 ÷ AVERAGE DAILY BATHERS = NUMBER OF DAYS BETWEEN DRAININGS.

Remembering these five steps:  Circulation and filtration, cleaning, chemical care, testing, and drain and refill, your hot tub experience will be much more enjoyable. For more information on hot tub care and water chemistry, please contact the pros at Aqua Pro Spa and Pool.

Filter Sand

• According to Pool Center.com, a pool filter’s sand is #20 silica sand and only .45 to .55 mm in size. The sand in pool filters has also been specially graded so it’s able to trap particulate matter 20 to 100 microns in size. Pool filter sand is actually a crystalline silicate and not like the sand found on a beach. Because pool filter sand is crystalline silicate–based, it’s also not really suitable for use in sandboxes, for instance

Sandbox Sand

• The sand in a child’s sandbox, in comparison to the sand in a swimming pool filter, is less refined and more like beach or river sand. However, play sand can come from a number of sources, including crushed rock or silica-type sand. Pool filter sand is very small and formulated especially for water filtration, whereas crushed silicate or rock sand is less refined. There are many companies now selling specifically formulated play sand for use in sandboxes and not pool filters.

Water Filtration

• Pool filter sand is specifically made the way it is and with silica because it needs to effectively trap particles in a swimming pool’s water. Silica is also used as pool filter sand because of the way it attracts particulate matter in water passing through it. As water passes over filter sand, particles suspended in the water adhere to the edges of the sand. As pool filter sand keeps filtering water, more and more particulate matter ends up trapped.

Considerations

• Don’t use any sand in your swimming pool filter that’s not formulated and sized specifically for use in a pool filter. Beach or river sand meant for sandboxes and the like is of a different composition than silica-based pool filter sand and won’t filter water as efficiently. You can sharpen and refresh pool filter sand through use of a commercial filter cleanser. Backwash, or reverse, your pool filter every week to ensure that the sand inside it stays as clean as possible.

Filters are generally good for about a full year of usage. After that, they become less efficient in trapping foreign matter because of deterioration of the “fins”

1. You need to flush your spa plumbing and jet lines: We use Spa System Flush by Sea Klear or you can use Jet Flush by Leisure Time. You should be able to purchase these products from your local pool and spa store. If they don’t have them you can get them online or call us we can ship it to you.
2. Remove your filter(s)
3. Turn your temperature down to the lowest setting
4. Open up the air controls, jet faces and turn diverter valves to neutral so that there is water flowing through all of your jets and any water feature in your spa.
5. Bring your Bromine level up to 15 ppm or Chlorine levels up to 6 ppm for 24 hrs using granular Bromine or Chlorine: If you don’t have any granular Bromine, shake the bottle of Bromine tablets and then use the Bromine granules you’ve just created. Crack the lid open and shake the granules into the water. Run the jets and test your sanitizer levels. Continue this process until you establish the desired level. For a 400-500 gallon spa 2 ½-3 oz should do the trick. If you have a blower, turn it on and let it run through its timed cycle.
6. After 24 hrs REMOVE the filters, then add the flush as per instructions on the container: Turn on all of the jets, the blower, water features and air controls. All of these should have been on, but just in case you forgot go ahead and do it now. Let the equipment run through it’s timed cycles; if you don’t have timed cycles then run it for about 20 minutes. After the spa cycles shut off, let it sit for 20 minutes. Then turn on all of the equipment for one more cycle.
7. Turn off power to the spa and drain the spa: A sump pump is the fastest way to drain your spa. Using the small drain at the base of your spa, will take the better part of the day for the water to empty, and I don’t think you want this project to take all weekend. So, do yourself a favor and go to your local equipment rental store and rent a sump pump. They usually have them and are well worth the rental fee. Once the spa is empty use a wet/dry vacuum to suck out the remaining water in the bottom of the spa. Place the vacuum hose over the jets to remove all the water from the jets as well. To clean the spa surface, apply Spa Flush, 4-1 water to bleach mixture or a filter cleaning solution to a sponge or cloth and wipe the spa surface down. We recommend Filter and Cartridge Cleaner by Simplicity. If you have pillows don’t forget to clean them too.
8. Clean your filters with a good filter cleaning solution such as Simplicity brand Filter and Cartridge Cleaner; rinse them using a high pressure nozzle on a garden hose. Rinse until all suds have dissipated. Do not use a pressure washer this will damage your filter(s). When you are done cleaning the filters soak them in a bucket of 4-1 water to bleach solution for about 30 minutes.
9. Fill the spa with fresh water.
10. Add a heaping teaspoon of granular Bromine or Chlorine to the spa water.
11. Power up the spa. Set filter cycles to max time or at least 8 hours then rinse the filter and put it back in the spa. Turn on the jets and let them run for 20 minutes.
12. If you still see Biofilm, you will need to repeat this whole process again. Unfortunately this can take up to 3-4 times.

You should use a spa skimmer net to sift out any floating Biofilm and you may not need to drain again.
Once you have taken care of the problem the key is to follow the steps in my previous article “ What are the white flakes floating in my hot tub”. Happy soaking.
Please post a comment below if this article was helpful or not. We would love your feedback.

Jeff Smith

Winter can be a little hard on some of us, but it certainly doesn’t have to be.  I mean really, there are tons of things to do!  You can go for a snowshoe, skiing, sledding, feel the cool snow fall on your face while relaxing in your warm hot tub. The list goes on and on.  But when I just want to enjoy a little quiet time and chill out on my deck without actually chilling myself; well, that can be a challenge in the winter.

That’s why Aqua Pro started carrying Lava Heat Italia, they are outdoor heaters that provide 360 degree radiant heat that is significantly stronger than those “old mushroom” outdoor heaters.  Lava Heaters can withstand rain, snow, wind, & sleet. They are completely self-contained and water resistant.  The unit will remain lit under virtually any weather condition.  They even come with a 10 year limited warranty!

So go ahead, put a couple on your deck or patio, put a few around your spa, enjoy the ambiance and warmth they provide.  Get outside during the winter, it really is a ton of fun!

www.lavaheat.com

Biofilm is a microorganism which has the ability to attach itself to things that bacteria will use as a shelter (so to speak).  Biofilm is also soft and squishy, where calcium will crumble if you squish it between your fingers.  Also, calcium makes the spa walls feel rough or like sand paper to the touch.  Biofilm has become more prevalent with spas now a days because spas tend to have a minimum of 20 jets. The most common place we see this form of biofilm is in the plumbing. There are a few things that usually cause this stuff to grow in your pipes:

•  The sanitizer levels are too low.
•  The flow to the jets is turned off.
•  The air controls are turned off and/or never used.

If you don’t like to use the jets and just want to sit in the hot water, there are a few simple things you need to do to help eliminate biofilm from occurring:

• You need to maintain a consistent 3.0 – 6.0 Bromine, or a 1.5 – 3.0 if you use Chlorine. In order to do this you need to test the spa water.  There is simply no way around it, remember a neutral pH 7.4 – 7.6 will make your sanitizer more efficient.
• Make sure when you get out of the spa all of your jets have “full flow”.  Turn the jets on and inspect them, open the jets individually.
• Turn the diverter valves to the middle setting so all jets plumbed to that valve are flowing.
• Turn on the air controls, this will insure that when the spa filter cycle comes on, the air line will clear to the main body of water.  Then, when the jets turn off the air line will fill with sanitized water.
• You could also add sodium bromide to the water at a ratio of 2 oz. per 100 gals of water. This seems to work well to combat the bacteria.
• If you have an ozonator you should check the function to make sure it is working.If it is, then you might need to adjust the timer. You should have 6 – 8 hrs of total run time.

When dealing with water temperatures of 100º – 104º, bacteria grows rapidly.  When the sanitizer levels are low, bacteria has plenty of food in the form of organics to feed on.

• The best thing you can do for your spa to help eliminate organics is shower before you get in.  This eliminates all of the daily grime, lotions, body oils, make up and hair products.
• Test the water on a regular basis with a good quality test kit.
• Clean your filters with a filter cleaner and rinse them out with a high pressure nozzle on the garden hose.  Never use a pressure washer to clean your filter as it will destroy the filter.

I hope this information will help you identify and maybe even prevent this nasty stuff from growing in you spa.

Be sure to check back, a follow up blog will be posted in the near future regarding how to eliminate thebiofilm once it has established itself in your spa. Happy soaking.

A device called a cell is plumbed in the circulation system of a pool or spa. Salt is poured directly into either the spa or pool. Use a pool broom or for a spa turn on the jets to help dissolve the salt. When pool water passes over the cell an electrolytic process takes place where the salt is converted into chlorine/bromine.

If  sodium chloride (no iodine) is used chlorine will be produced. If sodium bromide (the kissing cousin to table salt) is used bromine is produced.

Here is an example of how the Watermaid Chlorinator is installed made by our friends in Australia!

Production levels are adjusted a couple of different ways.
1. Every salt system has a dial or up/down buttons to increase or decrease the power output of the cell which produces more or less sanitizer.
2. Increasing or decreasing the filter cycles. This determines how much time the water flows over the salt cell. More time will allow more sanitizer production. Less time will yield less production.

The spa or pool water needs to be tested just as you normally would with one exception. You will need to test the salt levels of the pool or spa by either using a salt test strip or reagent kits.
Evaporation has no effect on the salt levels but, water loss does. Splash out, carry out, adding water and leaking will have definite effects on the salt level.

Benefits for converting to a salt system are that bathers experience a softer feel to the water with less or no irritation to the eyes. A salt system destroys odorous and irritating chloramines/bromamines. This means no more shocking the water.

Salt levels are very low essentially you are bathing in saline solution. The levels are about 2500-3500 ppm. These are very low in comparison to the ocean which are anywhere from 25,000-35,000 ppm.

Like any product there is a right way and a wrong way to install. If a salt system is installed correctly and the water is cared for correctly the systems are awesome. The overall soak is much more enjoyable. I have installed a lot of salt systems from commercial  pools and spas to small residential pools and spas. The results are all the same the bather enjoyment is much greater than that of a conventional chlorine or bromine pool/spa. If there are any questions please comment and I will get back to you. Thanks for reading.

Jeff

• Ozone is a colorless gas w/ a chlorine-like  odor formed by an electric discharge in oxygen. It’s a strong oxidizing agent used in bleaching, sterilizing water, purifying air etc.
• Ozone when introduced correctly will kill bacteria such as E. coli and Fecal Coliform. It can also be affective in the removal of algae, virus and cysts.
• However, ozone or o3 will not change the pH,  you still need to test and adjust the pH to 7.4-7.6 which is neutral.
• Ozone is very difficult to actually break down enough especially in spas to reach its dissolved state known as Aqueous ozone which is effective ozone sanitizer
• I recommend your sanitizer levels for chlorine at least 1ppm or bromine 3ppm. This is the lowest of the effective sanitizing range of these chemicals. This will save you a little on chemical cost but, not huge savings as some may tell you will be the case.
• With spas we are dealing with water temperatures from 100-104 degrees. The half life of ozone is minimal maybe seconds and at these temperatures bacteria growth is accelerated so having a low level of sanitizer gives you that extra layer of protection.

I am a firm believer in ozone sanitation but, it has to be installed and managed correctly. You still have to maintain good water chemistry practices.

Almost all spas come equipped with ozonators in one form or another. There are many ways to install an ozonator correctly, but there are also many ways to install them incorrectly.

The more the ozone air bubble can be broken down creating more surface area, and the longer the ozone can stay in contact with water in transit, the better the chances of reaching aqueous state. You may need to increase or decrease filter times on you spa to increase or decrease ozone distribution.

You should never smell ozone in your spa. If you open the cover and smell ozone then the filter cycles are set to high or it is not installed correctly. If you don’t know what ozone smells like and would like to know then the next time you use a good copy machine sniff the air around the machine right after the copy comes out; or after a good lightning storm take time to notice how clean and fresh the air is, that’s ozone at work. Ozone is mother natures best natural purifier.

I hope this is helpful.

If there are any questions post them and I will get you an answer.

Happy soaking.

Jeff Smith